For $30 the Hasbro Voice-Effects Clone Helmet is pretty nice for kids and semi-adults alike.

However, all compliments aside there are a few issues that keep this helmet from being even close to a troopable helmet.

For starters, the helmet is QUITE flimsy (what do you expect for $30?),
and the snap together assembly doesn’t do too good of a job sealing gaps,
let alone hold the helmet together.

As if these isssues weren’t enough, the visor is HUGE!
Probably for “safety” reasons, but I digress. Here is the helmet in all it’s splendor:

The overall dimensions and style are very close to any “costume quality” helmet,
but it’s the details (or lack thereof) that make this project quite fun.

For starters,   the helmet needs disassembled completely.  Remove every screw,
take lots of notes and pictures so you know what goes where upon reassembly.

Next step is to measure the visor area so as to determine how much to “block out”

Using the masking tape as a guide and a ruler or tape measure,
draw out the “new” visor area,  OR the “new” cheek area.

It’s best to pick one side, then after you get that side perfected,
flip it over and use it as a template for the other side.
It’s not 1976! Symmetry is GOOD…

This is an excellent material to use for the cheek template:

About a dollar at your favorite auto parts store.
Generally I have a few dozen laying around the house for various projects.
Here is the template drawn out.  Included is a tape measure for scale.

Cut this out carefully, then clean it up as needed.
The result will be your “master” template.
Flip it over onto your plastic sheet,  and trace/cut it out.
You’ll want to put both templates back to back and trim so each piece
is exactly like one another.
Once you have your templates,  adhere them to the helmet using CA glue.
NOTE: CA Glue does NOT stick to the type of plastic used very well, so handle the cheek area with care for now.
Trust me… using CA glue is FINE at this step.

Now,  grab your can of Bondo from the fridge. (You do store your Bondo in the fridge, right?)
From the back side of the visor, carefully lay up Bondo against the plastic.
If you want some extra working time, you can mix the Bondo with about 2/3
the recommended hardener.  Storing Bondo in the fridge helps too.

You can use the excess Bondo to seal up some of the gaps/vents.
Place masking tape on the inside of the helmet so there is something to hold the Bondo.

Now, assemble the helmet (You did take notes and disassembly pics right?)
While assembling, you’ll want to use LIBERAL amounts of this adhesive:
Make sure to use plenty of the glue in the gaps/seams on the top of the helmet.

WARNING: This stuff is NASTY.   Do not use inside your house.
Make sure you use the adhesive outside or in a well-ventilated area.
Your helmet should look something like this:

Now, you can carefully remove the plastic from the cheeks.
If you did your Bondo well, it should look something like this:

If not,  don’t sweat it,  more Bondo will be going onto the helmet
to smooth up the helmet anyways…
As a precaution, mix up some of the plastic weld,
and seal up the gap between the top of the cheek and the lower edge of Bondo.

Coming Soon: Part Two of Three:  Surface prep and primer.