So you want to be Boba Fett. The first step is to extensively research the various types of armors and builders. There are many opinions about which is the “best.” This is a topic of debate and beyond the scope of this article. However, I will say choose the armor that is going to suit your needs and that YOU like the best, after all, it is your armor.
Once you select your armor, you can begin the process of building and painting. This entry will mainly focus on prepping and painting the armor in Empire Strikes Back (ESB) colors.
Let me add, that many consider Boba’s armor the most difficult to paint due to the fine detail and the various colors used. TAKE YOUR TIME. You are going to invest ALOT of money into this costume and rushing it will not yield the results you hope to obtain.
There are various opinions about paint colors and methods. Some people use Krylon spray cans and others use Floquil/Pollyscale paints (airbrushed). This article will focus on the airbrush methods. The colors needed for Boba’s armor are as follows and a extremely close to the colors used in the movie. This information is courtesy of SpideyFett and these are colors you will see in the pics below.
When you receive your armor, be sure to cut off the flash (the extra plastic around the edges) and sand the sides of the armor smooth. I used a Dremel tool to cut the flash off my armor. Also, using a fine grit sand paper (600), sand the armor where you will be applying the primer to ensure a good adhesion. Here is what the armor will look like when cut and sanded.
The base of the armor is painted in Krylon Gray Primer, which is then wet sanded (e.g. you wet the sandpaper- 1500 grit) and begin sanding. This process leaves the primer very smooth. The second coat is Krylon Metallic Silver. NOTE: be sure to let the silver dry for at least 24 hours. When the silver is dry, I recommend washing the armor LIGHTLY with a gentle soap (e.g. dish washing liquid) so that the oils from the paint do not interact with the other paints and crack. I experienced this when I was building my armor and it is quite a pain.
After the silver has dried, the preferred method of weathering is layering. On this set of armor I used masking fluid (a liquid latex that after it has dried can be painted over and then pealed off). I have heard that some people us toothpaste or mustard. I prefer the masking fluid, which can be purchased in nearly any hobby shop.
On to the colors…
1.THE BASE COAT: US.MEDIUM GREEN (PollyScale acrylic)
Yes, the same color that is used for the ROTJ or SE version of the armor.
Reason I choose this color as the base was because allot of people tend to think there’s just one “magic” color applied and then from there you go straight to weathering, when really there’s a ton of Misting involved…which ends up changing the over all color hue completely. And US Medium Green has a good base hue.
2. Next color applied: To create the dark greenish gray tones, I MISTED DUNKELGRUN RLM 82 (Model Master enamel), I think this is what Jango’s Kid and a few others recommend..GREAT COLOR….but I’ve seen this used as a Base color, IMO that is not correct… I use it to create tones only.
3. Third color applied: To create the highlights in the armor, misted…….here it comes……………………..PANZER OLIVE GREEN (Polly Scale acrylic), same color used on the helmet. Sometimes I use this color and mix a touch of Cobalt Blue to add that teal tone….cough cough, hint hint….
4. Forth color applied: to create the deeper/ darker tones, I mist GRIMY BLACK (Polly Scale acrylic)….looks dark gray….and I normally mist this over the same areas that I misted the Dunkelgrun Rlm 82…
5. Final color : This is just an accent color, a very lightly misted WASH in certain areas.. FRENCH EARTH BROWN (Polly Scale acrylic)……
6. Yellow scratches that will be added: Yellow Zinc Chromite
7. Chest Diamond: Yes it is a DIFFERENT color than the armor on ESB…. I used CNW GREEN (Polly Scale)
All these colors can be found at http://www.testors.com
1) Base Coat US Med. Green (in this image the armor weathering has already been masked off)
2) Additional weathering added using the colors stated above.
3) Here the masking fluid has been removed to reveal the underlying Krylon silver
4) Next, the yellow zinc chromate is hand-painted around the scratches. I used a very fine paint brush and using good reference photos reproduced the weathering.
5) Next, the armor was gently rubbed with 0000 (very fine) steel wool. This process smooths the paint and allows for the decals (vinyl) to be added and to adhere well to the armor. Also, you will notice in the photos below there is a black ”splatter.” The color I used for this was the grimy black described above. In order to achieve this effect, I cover the parts of the armor I did not want splattered with paper towel, then adding paint to a fine brush, approximately one inch from the armor and “flicked” it with my finger. I think was the most stressful part of the paint job.
6) The same painting processes were used to complete the cod piece, neck, and kidney plate.
7) The next part of the project to tackle were the shoulder bells. The ESB Fett shoulder bells are different colors, where as the ROTJ should bells are the same color. Just as the rest of the armor, there is a coast of Krylon Gray primer and Krylon Silver. The areas of battle damage are masked off using masking fluid. Again, do not rush and allow the masking fluid to dry at least several hours. The colors used for the shoulders on the ESB Fett are:
a) Right Shoulder
The base is UP ARMOR YELLOW, MIST of MILW ROAD ORANGE and misted with grimy black.
b) Left Shoulder
The base is UP ARMOR YELLOW, MIST YELLOW ZINC CHROMATE, again misted with grimy black.
The above information is courtesy of SpideyFett and his research, as well as the collective efforts of The Dented Helmet (TDH) members.
Notice the decal on the above image was added prior to removal of the masking. This was done so that the decal could be weathered without impacting the underlying silver coat. On a side note, the ESB mythosaur skull is distinctly different from the ROTJ mythosaur skull (e.g. the tusks are not attached to the skull in the ROTJ version).
Next, the masking fluid is removed.
Here is a photo of the armor and bells together.
The armor is attached to the flak vest via heavy duty snaps purchased from tandy leather factory. Indeed, they are the best snaps available.
Finally, completed pics of the costume.
I hope this was helpful. Any questions or comments can be directed to firstname.lastname@example.org